Plumbing Upgrade (2nd/3rd Gen Revels)

Sections


2ndGenPlumbing

Background Information


If you do not have experience with plumbing and know, generally and in a basic way, how to use teflon tape, diagnose/repair leaks, etc, then this is NOT A PROJECT FOR YOU! This product IS NOT intended to be a means by which people with absolutely no plumbing experience can re-plumb a Revel. E.G. you should know what ½ FIP swivel is, what NPT means, when to use tape and when to not use tape, what is a compression fitting, and more.

REVIEW THE HOW-TO FULLY BEFORE TACKLING THIS PROJECT!

  1. RoamRig cannot provide guidance on installation of any modifications to this kit, and/or modifications/repair of adjacent systems (pump, drains, macerator, etc).
  2. This kit is not intended to or advertised to make the plumbing any more robust in cold weather or resistant to damage from freezing. Care must be taken to winterize the plumbing whenever needed to prevent freezing.
  3. You must have GOOD teflon tape and/or teflon pipe sealant to install this kit
  4. If you install this kit and have leaks, RoamRig cannot walk you through diagnosing leaks. You must be able to isolate and identify where a potential leak is occurring.


Overview of Parts

Here’s a link to a PDF of the interconnection diagram to show you what connects to what, and to go over some of the installation details so that you understand what each part included in your kit is for.



Disassembly

  1. DRAIN THE TANK!
  2. Take the drawers out and take the top of the bench seat assembly off
  3. Here’s a video of the parts that will be removed and an orientation of what is where. Label wires before they are removed from the rear control panel! DO NOT CUT THE TOILET HOSE SHORT!
  4. Here’s a video of what will be removed under the kitchen near the sliding door.
  5. The lines under the floor will need to be removed. You can cut them where needed to remove them. They are often stuck in sealant (aka “goo”) under the shower and you may carefully need to use a long screwdriver or something else to get them out of the way. DO NOT puncture any wires or plumbing if you are poking the wires out of the sealant.
  6. When taking the back apart, remove the bracket from the water pump relay if applicable (some vans do not have a bracket from Winnebago). Do not cut the overflow/vent! Take the pump out for now and all other fresh water plumbing from the van.

     


Assembly

  1. If needed, you will have to move the heat exchanger down (some of them are installed high up) so that the customer can get to the mixing valve to adjust it. You will need to make a wood panel to hold the mixing valve lower. DO NOT install screws that are long and go into the shower surround. We use a lot of hot glue and short fasteners to hold the panel in place.
  2. Run all the long lines as shown in the P&ID. 72” hot/cold + drain go from under the kitchen to the back of the water tank, 72” hot/cold for the shower, and 60” hot/cold under the floor. 
  3. Install the rear panel and all fittings/plumbing and the water pump in the back of the van. Connect everything as shown in the P&ID. Put the water pump relay on the back of the control panel with the included 3M dual lock squares.
  4. Wire the rear panel switches as shown in the following video.
  5. Install the mixing valve assembly into the heat exchanger, install the toilet hose connector and connect it to the mixing valve assembly, install the 12” lines with tees, connect the shower hoses, and connect the 60” hoses under the floor to the tees. Make sure to secure all hoses as needed with clamps, screws, and zip ties. Make sure that Winnebago wiring under the bench seat is not crushing hoses or putting undue strain on the mixing valve assembly.
  6. Connect all lines under the sink and in the kitchen area. The 36” sink hoses use a ½ x ⅜ adapter on the sink side as shown in the video.
  7. Install the drain using the included valve and 90 degree fitting.
  8. Install the new kitchen panel on the sliding door side of the kitchen.

First Use & Testing

  1. Turn on the pump with the valve assembly in use tank and bleed air out of every line (toilet, sink hot/cold, shower hot/cold, rear shower hot/cold).
  2. Make sure the rear controls for both the water pump and outside light work correctly and that the indicator lights turn on.
  3. Leave the pump on for 20 minutes and listen for the pump to cycle. If it cycles, there’s a leak.
  4. Do a visual check for leaks on every fitting.
  5. Turn the hot water on and make sure you get hot water from each hot fixture (sink, shower, and rear shower). Make sure that hot and cold are on the correct side of the valve E.G. turning the sink to hot means the water is hot, and not cold = hot and hot = cold. If it is backwards, the hoses were connected backwards and need to be swapped.